Cold, frost, wet pavements, the salt spread on the roads when it freezes and the dry air from the heating: in winter, your dog’s paw pads go through more than you might think. They dry out, crack and, in long-haired dogs, little balls of ice or mud form between the toes. A few simple steps before and after a walk prevent almost all of it. Here’s how to protect your dog’s paw pads in winter and when it’s best to see the vet.
Why dog paw pads suffer in winter
Paw pads are tough, but not indestructible. In the cold months, three things affect them most:
- Road salt: it dries out the skin and stings in small cracks. If your dog licks it off afterwards, it can also upset their stomach.
- Ice and grit: their sharp edges can scratch the pads.
- Central heating: indoors, the dry air dries out the skin even more.
If you live in the mountains or in an area where it snows, take extra care: a lot of salt is spread on pavements and roads there.
Dog paw pads in winter: what to do before a walk
- Trim the fur between the pads with round-tipped scissors, level with the pad. That way less ice, mud and salt sticks to it. If your dog won’t let you, it’s best to have it done at the groomer’s.
- Apply a paw balm. A thin layer acts as a barrier against damp and salt. Massage it in well, between the toes too.
- Check the nails. If you can hear them clicking on the floor, it’s time to trim them: long nails spread the toes apart and let more dirt in.
During the walk: avoid salt and ice
Whenever you can, choose parks, dirt tracks or clean snow instead of salted pavements. Don’t let your dog sniff or eat the snow at the edge of the road. When it’s icy, a shorter walk is better.
Dog boots: when they’re worth it
They’re not essential, but in some cases they really help:
- if your dog already has cracked or sensitive pads,
- if you walk in areas with a lot of salt or grit,
- for older dogs or dogs with very little fur on their paws.
What matters is that they fit well: they shouldn’t slip off or pinch. Get your dog used to them at home with short sessions, treats and patience. The first few steps are often a bit clumsy, but it usually wears off within a few days.
After the walk: clean, dry and moisturise
This is the most important step: the sooner you remove the salt, the better.
- Rinse with lukewarm water. A bowl by the door is all you need: dip the paw in for a moment and gently rinse the pads and the spaces between the toes. Never use hot water, as it dries the skin out more.
- Dry thoroughly with a towel, between the toes too. Any moisture left behind softens the skin and makes it more prone to cracking.
- Check for cracks, redness or small stones stuck in the pads.
- Moisturise at night with another thin layer of balm.
For the rest of the year, see our guide on how to care for dog paw pads.
A tip for the house: leave a towel or an absorbent doormat by the entrance so salty water and mud don’t end up on the rug. And since your dog spends more hours on the sofa and on their blanket in winter, hair builds up in no time; for that, there’s our self-cleaning pet hair remover, a reusable roller.
Common mistakes
- Letting the salt dry on: if you wash the paws hours later, the salt keeps working all that time.
- Drying with a hot hairdryer: it dries out the pads even more. A towel is enough.
- Using hand cream meant for people: it usually contains perfume and your dog ends up licking it off. A balm made specifically for dogs’ paws is a better choice.
- Using too much balm: a thick layer makes your dog slip on wooden floors or tiles. A thin layer is enough.
When to see the vet
Mild dryness usually improves with consistent care. See your vet if a crack bleeds or is deep, if the paw is swollen or hot, if your dog is limping or if they keep licking or chewing a paw.